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Set Of Decorative Elements Free Vector

Set Of Decorative Elements Free Vector
mobycnc
mobycnc
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Set Of Decorative Elements Free Vector

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A funnel to fit gallon water bottles. Instructions I made this funnel to transfer filtered drinking water from a 5 gallon bottle to several one gallon bottles. 5 gallon bottles start off heavy, and difficult to aim. Early attempts had no curved lip. If water hit the side it sloshed up and out. The curve does an excellent job of preventing that. It speeds things up and makes the job easy. (I'd bet the main reason this curve is absent on cheap commercial funnels is it makes the mold far more complex and expensive. Also harder to stack and ship them. 3D printers are wonderful things...) The base ring rests on the lip of the bottle and is notched for air exit, so there's no air-lock. Overall dimensions are roughly 4"x4" (100mmx100mm). The tube is 1.2 inch diameter (30mm) and fits disposable, store-bought 1 gal water bottles. Scaling larger or smaller seems doable, up to where the walls become impractically thick or thin. Afinia defaults except for 0.35mm layers to save some time. 110 minutes, 57 grams ABS. There was no support to speak of when STLs were printed as posted. [NOTE] If printed on an Afinia, which automatically adds support under any overhangs, be aware there is a microscopic edge, inside, where the curved lip is attached to the body. Around layer 20 or so, my printer started printing some wild hairs, so I STOP the print. I thought it was a bad design or something, and a failed print. But the few random strings of filament was just support for that virtually invisible edge. So, let the print continue if you see it happening.] A metric version is included.

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Another mix of the standard Milling Machine hold downs. I wasn't happy with the performance or design of the others, and the lack of source files to customize always annoys me... so, I drafted up a set in Inventor 2014. These are setup to work with 5mm bolts but you can customize the source files as needed (or scale your STL along the width axis to elongate the 5.5mm opening for the clamp bolt. If you scale the length, you'll need to scale all of the parts correspondingly or the mating surface between the step blocks and the hold down bars won't align anymore tho! Update: I changed the hold down bar to remove the bevel from the top side. This allows for easier printing (print the bars "upside down" with the teeth facing up) without a need of support or fear of warping during the print if printed without. Instructions Print Settings: When printing the parts initially, I printed them at a high percentage of infill for strength. I believe my initial prints were done with a 60% infill w/rectilinear fill pattern. This lends itself to being very strong for clamping and does a good job at resisting cracking or delamination of the print while in use, but at the cost of using a LOT of filament for an otherwise small part. So, after printing a bunch more and tested each, I'm changing my recommendation on print settings. I now find, for myself at least, that the means for these to be strong, yet light and print quickly, is using a higher perimeter count... Going with something closer to 10 or 15 gives you some solid shell for the connection points, which will remain rugged after lots of use, yet only require something like a 20% infill and a 200 micron layer heights. For print settings for the Arms I most frequently print them with 8-10 perimeters, and 6-8 solid layers for top/bottom. With all that, then going with 20% infill is all that's needed really, as the infill at that point is just providing mass vs strength of the part.You do need enough infill for when you are clamping down, especially if you don't have a large washer to distribute the load, to prevent the clamp arm from being potentially crushed if you have to really crank down on a part. Print Orientation: For the actual printing orientation on the print platform, I have been most successful by orienting them as such: Steps - Print on the side, with the teeth facing sideways. I find it's best to print these in pairs with the teeth facing each other, with the part oriented 180 degrees to one another, such that the pair then forms a large rectangle with the space between the two. Give yourself about 4-6mm between them, which should allow your slicer to lay down some brim that bridges between the two parts for your first layer. Bars - Print on back, with teeth facing UP.

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UPDATE: The "Long" version of the screw could grip on to a 1mm table. It's overkill but I wanted to ensure people had a choice that would work. The original screw leaves a 17mm gap so if your table or desk is thinner than 17mm, use the long screw**

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